I think the prize for worst/tightest bearing seat goes to the ProtoStar. It’s too bad that classic yoyo never got the re-design it deserved.
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Idk about you, but my Protostar bearing just falls out when I open it.
Mine has a deathgrip on the bearing.
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Most older yyfs do. I remember i got a YYE edition boss and completely messed up the bearong seat trying to take the bearing out. Luckily yyf helped me out and gave me a new one
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Idk what magical protostar you got but they are notorious for death grip spacers. Probably the worst rep out of any YYF yoyo
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Yeah deathgrip on the bearing isn’t great. But I also don’t think flippy-floppy loose is necessarily great either; it’s annoying to have to hold things in place during a routine assembly.
What you want, Goldilocks, is “juuust right” tightness where it’s tight enough to hold but not loose enough to flop out. IMHO obviously. I find that the tight ones tend to loosen up after a few removals as well.
(disclaimer: I loc-tite in the axle screw on all my throws as well, so I’m maybe a bit particular about this.)
What does the ridiculous tolerance level required means for SE yoyos? Does this mean more areas requiring this ridiculous accuracy? The bearing post is on the side effect, so i presume the side effect needs to be accurate, but does this mean the part where the side effect joins with the yoyo also needs to be just as accurate? Are you basically selling side effects at costs or even below costs?
Correct, the bearing post is on the Side Effect and we have to hold the high tolerances on those as well. The taper hole needs to centered in relation to the rim at the same level of tolerance. This is accomplished by the fact that the rim and the taper are cut on the same operation. The tapered hole actually centers the Side Effect much like if you put a basketball in a small tapered trash can. As some point the ball would bottom out and be perfectly centered.
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Actually, I want One Drop bearing posts on every yoyo I ever purchase, regardless of the manufacturer. I personally (in the rare instance I take a bearing out) don’t want to have to go get a tool to get it out.
Oh wait, you were talking to Goldilocks, not me 
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By “Goldilocks”, you are describing .0001" tolerance. Which a hot or a cold day can change. Most bearings have a larger tolerance for the inner diameter than that.
The reason it gets looser is because you have worn away material on the bearing post. The bearing inner diameter won’t change, but the soft aluminum will give.
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I got a prototype boa as a freebie from a bst purchase. It had all kinds of vibe. I figured the axle had been cross threaded or was bent. When I took it apart the axle was threaded OK and looked square to the yoyo. I pulled the axle out and rolled it on my workbench, it was straight. I looked at the other half and noticed the bearing was sitting crooked, I figured it must’ve come loose when I unscrewed the yoyo. When I went to pull it off it would not budge, I tried wriggling it with one of those bearing tools and it would not move. I would up having to use a real bearing puller (luckily I had one small enough) to get it off there. The post was totally distorted. My guess is the post was really tight and somebody set the bearing on the post and tried to seat it by screwing the halves together and it went crooked. That took some real force, I’m still amazed the threads didn’t strip first.
I’m still trying to figure out how to fix it.
This is not to give reticulated yoyos any grief, I own several of their throws and have had no issues like this, the posts are good on all the others. My guess is this particular prototype was a bit out of spec, and the person who tried to seat the bearing this way just applied more force instead of stopping to figure out why the yoyo was being hard to screw back together.
Thank you @da5id for machining your posts correctly!!
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My other hobby is old cars. I’ve had to do the “put it in the freezer” trick for various car things now and then, and even heat it with a torch and then put it in the freezer to get some real stubborn things to release. I’ve not yet had to do this to a yoyo.
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Let me know if you need any help. I can always try and fix it for you or we can maybe swap that half out if I cant get it fixed. Im always here to help 
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Best quality of one drop 10 ball bearings? They are as smooth as butter and they (if kept lubed and clean) are almost silent
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That’s awfully generous of you. The yoyo was given to me so I’m not terribly worried about it, and I’m still pondering the best way to fix it. It’s a fun challenge. I also have a perfectly good boa that I enjoy very much.
If I run out ideas I’ll see what you think. I have a friend who is a machinist, I’m going to pick his brain next.
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Well, the Topyo Origin costs only 30 bucks and comes with both a good flat and a good centertrack bearing.
Even the 100-USD competition throw VTwo only comes with a flat bearing so the customer has to spend some extra money (5-30 dollars) on buying the bearing that he wants.
Why is that?
They machine the VTWO themselves, it’s more expensive to produce it that way.
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One is made in China and one is made in the USA.
Also there isn’t one bearing that would satisfy everyone so matter which one we put in there, some amount of customers will swap. We’ve been over this a few times in this thread.
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