Completely agree. 7075 for $60 on V2’s! It was a beast. But my skills were lower then and I liked grinds. So any skin contact would send em flying in whatever direction. Now, I could appreciate them much more, but they will have to live on in memory.
This is the other polished photo I mentioned.
sexy photo! 
Very Beautifull!!!
here’s what happened to the Leggenda…
Hard anodizing, with higher thicknesses and smaller pores, already assumes a dark gray color after anodizing and therefore the most used color is black which allows for uniformity of the color differences of the various alloys.
Therefore having had to repeat the process twice, given the color we think we are close to 50 µm thick … the pores are practically closed by themselves, so it does not receive the color …
Great work, can’t wait to see some crazy swirls when you’re ready.
Really dig the part Anno, part not Anno type you have going along with the solid color with diagonal lines.
method for the Aurora
these are the parameters:
oxidation thickness :10 µm
decaping duration: 6 minutes in 10% sodium hydroxide
anodic process: duration 60 minutes in 20% sulfuric acid
current density: 1,000 mA
color immersion duration: 35 minutes in 8% color solution at a temperature of 70-90 celsius degrees
acid wash on the red cup with 5% sodium hydroxide
pore sealing duration: 30 minutes in boiling distilled water
new anodizing for the Sleipnir…
the real color is red and pale yellow, unfortunately the light makes them lighter. tomorrow I’ll take a photo with natural light (now it’s half past midnight here …) good night!
Any issues with the bearing seat or axle? @persson
no, not any problems
Looking good! Just chiming in to say be careful of the fumes the chemicals create. Looking forward to more updates.
Three new anodization…
Copy 7075 Overdrive
Compass
Turntable
hard to see in the picture but the Turtable has a reflective surface which looks like it’s coated with glass… don’t ask me how that’s possible… I have no idea!
I’m thinking about how to do the Third Impact… being a rare yoyo, never going into production and knowing the love of the Japanese for raw yoyos, it will probably be a non-colored anodization… while I was thinking about this I thought about the Overdrive… Am I wrong or have there never been pink yoyos with silver splashes?
in the end even what I think is my last anodization (meaning I won’t do any more in the future) sees the light.
As written above I had to anodize the Third Impact because it was starting to show important oxidation spots but being a model left in the pre-production phase I didn’t want to color it with an obvious color and I didn’t even feel like leaving it without color like the Leggenda… so I didn’t really know how to do it.
I decided to leave all these ideas aside and get inspired by his name which comes from the Neon genesis Evangelion saga and therefore I thought of the world after him… “Scattered ruins and the entities’ decomposing body parts litter the landscape” … so I tried to make it as post-apocalyptic as possible … and here is the result … which is very, very strange and which made me reduce the room where I did everything, a room to reclaim … worthy of the “third impact”!
This looks absolutely sick Fabrizio, it feels like a normal anodisation on the hand? great work I love it!
thanks Alberto and sorry if I answer only now.
when I started the two ideas I had were to have two halves of different colors (I love this feature because it allows you to appreciate two colors in a single yoyo and because it makes it easier to understand tricks in the game) and that it had a lived-in look, like a old wreck survived a catastrophe but how to do it I had no idea …
the anodization was set with parameters to obtain a layer of about 10 microns,
followed by a bath in cyan ink-jet dye for both halves. At this point I took advantage of a typical feature of ergal (7075 alloy), that of creating a black patina if made to react with sodium hydroxide
on one half I just sprayed and rinsed, on the other I did a very quick dip and immediate rinse. Then followed another bath in red dye (the universal one I had taken for the Plastic Peak test which has a very particular, almost waxy consistency). Finally, a few steps to fade with a brush and much more diluted sodium hydroxide and immersion in boiling water for about half an hour to close the pores.
how are you cleaning the parts prior?
you can see it from this last photo, after the blasting I pickled the halves in a 20% sodium hydroxide bath to remove any residual fat, from that moment the parts should no longer be touched with the hands.
