EGG!
Stainless steel filled PLA skillet, polycarbonate bearing seat and egg white, HTPLA yolk.
16 Likes
The amount of egg jokes running through my head rn is ubiquitous.
1 Like
17 Likes
I will not throw green eggs and ham…
10 Likes
Would you stall them in a hall?
Would you trapeze them overseas?
8 Likes
Would you lunar them as a boomer?
5 Likes
Do yoyos printed on polar printers end up playing smoother?
Doubtful. Printer/filament tuning and design more important.
2 Likes
What kind of axle system is best for 3d printed yoyos? I tried side effects but they aren’t tightening properly:
I’m going to adjust my dimensions a bit and try again, but it looks like most of y’all don’t even bother and just use like a nut and a set screw? How are you getting good bearing seats?
1 Like
I do mostly nut and screw. I have a few Cabal guts. Stem system is nice but pricey. I think YYF was also going to sell a kit but I’m not sure if it happened.
2 Likes
“Best” is highly subjective, and also depends on the style of yoyo. Most of mine have the bearing seat designed as part of the print, and use grub screws and lock nuts to hold it together. The Dale Tubat designs are similar, but the bearing seat and response area is printed as a separate piece, and use a bolt with a standard hex head instead of a grub screw. For unresponsive designs I’ve had good success using the Cabal Guts, using them tends to improve my chances of making something with minimal vibe. But I’ve made plenty of playable throws with printed seats too. I feel like the Cabal kits are a good deal for what you get, but they also ~quadruple the cost of a printed throw compared to just printing the bearing seat.
If you’re unable to fully tighten your design using side effects, you probably need to tighten up the holes in the printed parts. When using the Cabal Guts I design them such that the parts are a very tight press fit, as in I need to use a rubber mallet to get them fully seated. You could also try using a little contact cement or something to hold the parts together more securely.
3 Likes
Freshly dirty stem kits are expensive but really good. Cabal guts work really well but you have to design for them.
A hex nut and bolt is cheapest but works just fine with a printed seat. Best if you print a spool for between the bolt and bearing.
You can get creative and print your own bolt system but it’ll need to be nearly the size of the bearing inner race and would benefit from being a harder material like pc or abs or something more resilient.
There the old yoyo joker system and Luftverk system and yoyo factory has a system kind of. Lots of options.
Sadly side effects aren’t the best unless you design for there usage specifically locking in at the o ring.
1 Like
Ohh yeah also a grub screw and either embedded hex nuts or printed threads but that’s dicey
1 Like
Second print of the BRB (in red) shows the vibe stays minimal even with aligned seam. The aligned seam has a much more pleasing feel on the hand (as no dimples). This one does use a flat bearing and has a little more feels on the string.
2 Likes
This is a minerJ Forager print, responsive with A bearing. The bearing seats are printed. Done proper like this, the level of performance and smoothness is insane. I don’t know much of anything about printing, but I know what’s good, and this is excellent.
4 Likes
Let us know how durability goes. My worry with sls is fragility
I definitely will! SLS tends to be pretty durable and I think this is made out of Nylon 11 (not sure though).
You might be thinking of SLA which tends to be brittle which is why I haven’t printed a yoyo out of it quite yet.
I could be wrong but I’m pretty sure SLS is very durable.
2 Likes
Fair I’m not familiar with resin printing enough to know so I might be totally wrong
1 Like
SLA is resin printing. SLS is a similar process except it uses powdered filaments (or metal powders) instead of resin, and produces very strong parts. Would be awesome to have access to an SLS printer. Cheapest one I know of starts at about $10k, most of them cost much much more.
3 Likes