# Let’s talk 3D printing

**URL:** <https://forums.yoyoexpert.com/t/let-s-talk-3d-printing/324700>\
**Category:** Unrelated Discussion\
**Created:** [July 23, 2020, 4:28pm UTC](https://forums.yoyoexpert.com/t/let-s-talk-3d-printing/324700 "2020-07-23T16:28:18Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 20\
**Page:** 67

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**Author:** ![TryCatchThrow](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/flex015/user_avatar/forums.yoyoexpert.com/trycatchthrow/32/171307_2.png) [@TryCatchThrow](https://forums.yoyoexpert.com/u/TryCatchThrow)\
**Post date:** [March 12, 2025, 4:14pm UTC](https://forums.yoyoexpert.com/t/let-s-talk-3d-printing/324700/1326 "2025-03-12T16:14:32Z")

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Sorry to hear that. Remind me what you’re printing on? The one thing I’ve been most happy with on my Bambu is that it does a great job of layer 1 failure detection and spaghetti detection. It’s not entirely resistant to errors but it covers a large swath of them pretty automatically.

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**Author:** ![MinerJ](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/flex015/user_avatar/forums.yoyoexpert.com/minerj/32/629515_2.png) [@MinerJ](https://forums.yoyoexpert.com/u/MinerJ)\
**Post date:** [March 12, 2025, 5:11pm UTC](https://forums.yoyoexpert.com/t/let-s-talk-3d-printing/324700/1327 "2025-03-12T17:11:47Z")

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It’s a Bambu P1P, which I have done a DIY P1S upgrade to (did it before the P1S or P1S upgrade kit existed). I also have a single AMS. It’s been a fantastic printer, it has close to 4k machine hours on it and this was my first major issue.

Sounds like you’ve got an X1C?

I’ve bought and resold a P1S combo using MakerWorld points, and currently have enough points saved up for a P1S (not a combo). I’d like to use points to replace my P1P at some point, but not sure if I’ll get another P1S combo to have 2 AMS, or go for the X1C to use with my single existing AMS.

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**Author:** ![TryCatchThrow](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/flex015/user_avatar/forums.yoyoexpert.com/trycatchthrow/32/171307_2.png) [@TryCatchThrow](https://forums.yoyoexpert.com/u/TryCatchThrow)\
**Post date:** [March 12, 2025, 5:53pm UTC](https://forums.yoyoexpert.com/t/let-s-talk-3d-printing/324700/1328 "2025-03-12T17:53:22Z")

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Yes. I have the X1C. It’s been pretty awesome.

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**Author:** ![AudreySickburn](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/flex015/user_avatar/forums.yoyoexpert.com/audreysickburn/32/313292_2.png) [@AudreySickburn](https://forums.yoyoexpert.com/u/AudreySickburn)\
**Post date:** [March 12, 2025, 10:48pm UTC](https://forums.yoyoexpert.com/t/let-s-talk-3d-printing/324700/1329 "2025-03-12T22:48:10Z")

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Critical hitstacks. I’m working on a version with numbers and then will post it up if it’s printable.

 ![IMG_8643](https://us1.discourse-cdn.com/flex015/uploads/yoyoexpert1/original/4X/4/5/1/451bc9b9160b3ed5458e4acf566da2e705147b4d.jpeg)

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**Author:** ![TryCatchThrow](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/flex015/user_avatar/forums.yoyoexpert.com/trycatchthrow/32/171307_2.png) [@TryCatchThrow](https://forums.yoyoexpert.com/u/TryCatchThrow)\
**Post date:** [March 13, 2025, 12:38am UTC](https://forums.yoyoexpert.com/t/let-s-talk-3d-printing/324700/1330 "2025-03-13T00:38:45Z")

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Here are my dice Hubstack caps:

> **[Dice Hubstack by TryCatchThrow | Download free STL model | Printables.com](https://www.printables.com/model/1227575-dice-hubstack)**
>
> Dice shape hubstacks for a yoyo. | Download free 3D printable STL models

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**Author:** ![MinerJ](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/flex015/user_avatar/forums.yoyoexpert.com/minerj/32/629515_2.png) [@MinerJ](https://forums.yoyoexpert.com/u/MinerJ)\
**Post date:** [March 14, 2025, 6:01pm UTC](https://forums.yoyoexpert.com/t/let-s-talk-3d-printing/324700/1331 "2025-03-14T18:01:39Z")

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Printer is back up and running! Still need another iteration or two before I’m ready to publish these Honeycomb yoyos. Working on a fixie version, MR85 version, and an A version, as well as a counterweight. Need to tune the supports for the fingerspin cups or figure out a nice way to clean them better. I couldn’t find a sharp chisel that was narrow enough this morning.

 ![HC1](https://us1.discourse-cdn.com/flex015/uploads/yoyoexpert1/original/4X/e/5/e/e5e1e8ec40c0d3c31da5a58b2756ccd3ab4156da.jpeg)  
 ![HC2](https://us1.discourse-cdn.com/flex015/uploads/yoyoexpert1/original/4X/c/7/6/c7694abc8d534c9f0e17f7f9ef5c1fea0327a14f.jpeg)  
 ![HC3](https://us1.discourse-cdn.com/flex015/uploads/yoyoexpert1/original/4X/2/8/0/280e89f01dfe384537d3867ad447a6349d311449.jpeg)

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**Author:** ![AudreySickburn](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/flex015/user_avatar/forums.yoyoexpert.com/audreysickburn/32/313292_2.png) [@AudreySickburn](https://forums.yoyoexpert.com/u/AudreySickburn)\
**Post date:** [March 14, 2025, 6:06pm UTC](https://forums.yoyoexpert.com/t/let-s-talk-3d-printing/324700/1332 "2025-03-14T18:06:30Z")

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Supports and dimples may honestly never get along. You might find it easier rounding out the cup to avoid supports and just have a few mm of bridging at the top instead.

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**Author:** ![MinerJ](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/flex015/user_avatar/forums.yoyoexpert.com/minerj/32/629515_2.png) [@MinerJ](https://forums.yoyoexpert.com/u/MinerJ)\
**Post date:** [March 14, 2025, 6:22pm UTC](https://forums.yoyoexpert.com/t/let-s-talk-3d-printing/324700/1333 "2025-03-14T18:22:23Z")

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For the fixies bridging instead of supports is definitely the way to go. For the bearing models with the seat for the nut I don’t think it’ll work, but those are also easier to clean up the part that shows.

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**Author:** ![AudreySickburn](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/flex015/user_avatar/forums.yoyoexpert.com/audreysickburn/32/313292_2.png) [@AudreySickburn](https://forums.yoyoexpert.com/u/AudreySickburn)\
**Post date:** [March 14, 2025, 6:49pm UTC](https://forums.yoyoexpert.com/t/let-s-talk-3d-printing/324700/1334 "2025-03-14T18:49:14Z")

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Yeah the nut portion shouldn’t be too hard. I usually stick an allen wrench through the axle hole and the support just pops right out. (Working on my first bearing design as well and have made about a dozen or so that way)

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**Author:** ![AtomicChessGuy](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/flex015/user_avatar/forums.yoyoexpert.com/atomicchessguy/32/606394_2.png) [@AtomicChessGuy](https://forums.yoyoexpert.com/u/AtomicChessGuy)\
**Post date:** [March 16, 2025, 12:54am UTC](https://forums.yoyoexpert.com/t/let-s-talk-3d-printing/324700/1335 "2025-03-16T00:54:43Z")

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What’s the advantage to using supports in a bearing design for the nut area? I just print with out supports.

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**Author:** ![AudreySickburn](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/flex015/user_avatar/forums.yoyoexpert.com/audreysickburn/32/313292_2.png) [@AudreySickburn](https://forums.yoyoexpert.com/u/AudreySickburn)\
**Post date:** [March 16, 2025, 1:41am UTC](https://forums.yoyoexpert.com/t/let-s-talk-3d-printing/324700/1336 "2025-03-16T01:41:51Z")

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It depends on your design, if you can print without supports and bridge then great, but not all designs lend themselves to that method. I’m doing small bearings like mr85 and smaller so the nut can’t sit right below the bearing, there isn’t room even for an m3 nut. So I have an extended axle hole and the nut is installed from the back. Screenshot example below, you can’t bridge that design because of the axle hole through the center of the square nut hole.

 ![Screenshot 2025-03-15 at 6.36.14 PM](https://us1.discourse-cdn.com/flex015/uploads/yoyoexpert1/original/4X/3/0/c/30cac004a5ce67df58c15eeb51a9bc5d75230182.jpeg)  
 ![Screenshot 2025-03-15 at 6.36.40 PM](https://us1.discourse-cdn.com/flex015/uploads/yoyoexpert1/original/4X/2/7/d/27d5c3928e398665250f4892e397bdf641348e56.png)

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**Author:** ![TryCatchThrow](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/flex015/user_avatar/forums.yoyoexpert.com/trycatchthrow/32/171307_2.png) [@TryCatchThrow](https://forums.yoyoexpert.com/u/TryCatchThrow)\
**Post date:** [March 16, 2025, 2:09am UTC](https://forums.yoyoexpert.com/t/let-s-talk-3d-printing/324700/1337 "2025-03-16T02:09:47Z")

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I tend to use sacrificial bridges to clean up a design like that with a floating fastener recess. I was working on one tonight but haven’t printed it yet (and haven’t decided that I like it yet either 😁).

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**Author:** ![MinerJ](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/flex015/user_avatar/forums.yoyoexpert.com/minerj/32/629515_2.png) [@MinerJ](https://forums.yoyoexpert.com/u/MinerJ)\
**Post date:** [March 17, 2025, 4:59pm UTC](https://forums.yoyoexpert.com/t/let-s-talk-3d-printing/324700/1338 "2025-03-17T16:59:11Z")

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Some recent learnings I thought I’d share regarding designing and printing bearing type throws. Most of you have probably already figured these things out, but maybe it’ll help someone.

I was having issues with the bearing posts being fragile and breaking off easily. My initial thought was to use a 3mm axle instead of the standard 4mm to increase the wall thickness of the bearing post. Unfortunately, the 3mm threads aren’t quite up to the task, and strip way too easily. I ended up going back to the 4mm axle, and simply making the bearing post very short, and with a slightly looser fit so that removing a bearing is less likely to pop the post off with it.

As a side note, the crazy good inter-layer bond strength of TPU means it’s not an issue with TPU prints. I only had issues with PLA and PETG.

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**Author:** ![AudreySickburn](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/flex015/user_avatar/forums.yoyoexpert.com/audreysickburn/32/313292_2.png) [@AudreySickburn](https://forums.yoyoexpert.com/u/AudreySickburn)\
**Post date:** [March 17, 2025, 5:03pm UTC](https://forums.yoyoexpert.com/t/let-s-talk-3d-printing/324700/1339 "2025-03-17T17:03:43Z")

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Similar experience here with the exception of m3 hardware which has been holding up well for me so far. I’m using m3ns square nuts and m3-.05 grub screws.

I am working on an mr85 ORK and I wanted to print one out of the cork material but the bearing seat snaps right off. Luckily my standard material HTPLA is holding up to bearing seats well so far but I do only stick my posts up 1 mm because I hate excessively tall bearing posts with a burning fiery passion.

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**Author:** ![mable](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/flex015/user_avatar/forums.yoyoexpert.com/mable/32/194074_2.png) [@mable](https://forums.yoyoexpert.com/u/mable)\
**Post date:** [March 17, 2025, 5:11pm UTC](https://forums.yoyoexpert.com/t/let-s-talk-3d-printing/324700/1340 "2025-03-17T17:11:44Z")

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Instead of incorporating the bearing post into the body of the print, what YJYoyo and some of the other big yoyo 3D printers figured out is that having a separate bearing post piece works very well. Haven’t had any issues with these breaking, using an m4 hex bolt axle.

 ![IMG_2974](https://us1.discourse-cdn.com/flex015/uploads/yoyoexpert1/original/4X/6/0/d/60dd8eb62f5d468297bcff4a4c5d05e47a9b728c.jpeg)  
 ![IMG_2975](https://us1.discourse-cdn.com/flex015/uploads/yoyoexpert1/original/4X/2/7/7/2777e82fe1006c9c09d12a5b8e5277ae0c027433.jpeg)

The same bearing post style but on a responsive yoyo.

> **[Easy Trick Gradient](https://shop.yoyoexpert.com/products/easy-trick-gradient-yoyo-by-yjyoyo?variant=41567767232702)**
>
> YJYOYO is a Korean company originally started by 2A professional player Yoon Jong Ki. It all began with the dream of making his own yoyos, his own yoyo academy, and building big competitions with a focus on enjoying yoyo as a community. Thanks to...

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**Author:** ![AudreySickburn](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/flex015/user_avatar/forums.yoyoexpert.com/audreysickburn/32/313292_2.png) [@AudreySickburn](https://forums.yoyoexpert.com/u/AudreySickburn)\
**Post date:** [March 17, 2025, 5:26pm UTC](https://forums.yoyoexpert.com/t/let-s-talk-3d-printing/324700/1341 "2025-03-17T17:26:49Z")

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Very interesting! I keep getting distracted looking at the pic because they don’t clean their supports off the print before they ship them apparently so I keep staring at the support interface :joy: but the idea is very smart. I’ve also been working on a kinda similar idea that uses swappable bearings seats so you can replace the seat if something happens to it or swap an mr85 for a d or a bearing.

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**Author:** ![mable](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/flex015/user_avatar/forums.yoyoexpert.com/mable/32/194074_2.png) [@mable](https://forums.yoyoexpert.com/u/mable)\
**Post date:** [March 17, 2025, 5:35pm UTC](https://forums.yoyoexpert.com/t/let-s-talk-3d-printing/324700/1342 "2025-03-17T17:35:11Z")

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Oh the pictures aren’t from yjyoyo, these aren’t sold prints. I just wanted to show the bearing post concept taken apart because it works extremely well.

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**Author:** ![AudreySickburn](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/flex015/user_avatar/forums.yoyoexpert.com/audreysickburn/32/313292_2.png) [@AudreySickburn](https://forums.yoyoexpert.com/u/AudreySickburn)\
**Post date:** [March 17, 2025, 5:43pm UTC](https://forums.yoyoexpert.com/t/let-s-talk-3d-printing/324700/1343 "2025-03-17T17:43:33Z")

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My bad! Totally misread that! I like the idea though, I’ve had a few bearing sizes give me trouble, ones smaller than mr85 for example. This could potentially help.

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**Author:** ![AudreySickburn](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/flex015/user_avatar/forums.yoyoexpert.com/audreysickburn/32/313292_2.png) [@AudreySickburn](https://forums.yoyoexpert.com/u/AudreySickburn)\
**Post date:** [March 17, 2025, 7:13pm UTC](https://forums.yoyoexpert.com/t/let-s-talk-3d-printing/324700/1344 "2025-03-17T19:13:32Z")

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In the spirit of also being late for Modern Responsive March here is my latest design for your printing pleasure. The ORK redone for MR85 bearings. I left a list of hardware needed on the printables pages for those that wanna make their own.

It is no longer snaggy since it’s not relying on angry teefs for response but the rims are still relatively sharp and angry by design.

 ![tempImage9Szp8K](https://us1.discourse-cdn.com/flex015/uploads/yoyoexpert1/original/4X/5/f/9/5f9b2757aff5892d6379b506c40c15293783e501.jpeg)  
 ![tempImagekqrPdM](https://us1.discourse-cdn.com/flex015/uploads/yoyoexpert1/original/4X/5/3/d/53d27475384e74aef94db7f8b5205760544bd7d1.jpeg)

> **[The ORK MR85 Version Yo-Yo by AudreySickburn | Download free STL model |...](https://www.printables.com/model/1233465-the-ork-mr85-version-yo-yo)**
>
> After anger management classes it bites string less. | Download free 3D printable STL models

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<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![TryCatchThrow](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/flex015/user_avatar/forums.yoyoexpert.com/trycatchthrow/32/171307_2.png) [@TryCatchThrow](https://forums.yoyoexpert.com/u/TryCatchThrow)\
**Post date:** [March 17, 2025, 7:56pm UTC](https://forums.yoyoexpert.com/t/let-s-talk-3d-printing/324700/1345 "2025-03-17T19:56:19Z")

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I have been using M3 fairly well. I’m using an m3 lock nut and m3 grub screws.

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